Surreal Bosra

Traveling around Syria is like taking a (fun) History class. Actually it is more of a combination of History, Art and even Religion.

A couple weekends ago my friend Mona and I had the chance to visit Bosra, a town 100 miles south of Damascus, near the border with Jordan. I had heard wonderful things about it and I must admit I was worried about being disappointed. The main attraction of Bosra is its Roman amphitheater, and I have seen so many already….. However, Bosra definitely is special. Take my word for it, this place is amazing.

As usual in Syria location was key to the development and success of this city. It existed already in the 14th century before Christ, but it was probably only 20 centuries ago when it flourished the most due to the construction of a mayor road that linked Damascus with Amman (Jordan’s capital). This road is actually quite different that the one that goes to Palmyra. You actually see vegetation here, plenty of it. There are plantations nearby the road, and there are dozens of stalls selling all kinds of fresh fruits and vegetables.

Another difference between Palmyra and Bosra is the color of the stone used to build each city. While Palmyra is very light, almost the same color as the sand of the desert, Bosra is made of a much darker stone, almost black. The city was built by the Romans following their traditional grid design, but all that remains of the city are ruins, except for the amphitheater, but I will talk about it later on.

Like I said before, Syria is a lesson of Religion, and as such Bosra has taught me a few interesting things. One of them is that the city was an important stop for religious and commercial caravans that would travel around the region and to the two holy cities of Islam: Mecca and Medina. As such, Mohamed, the Prophet, stopped in this city when he was 12 during a trip with his merchant uncle. In fact one of the oldest mosques in the world is built here, in the place where Mohamed’s camel knelt. But the most significant event that happened here is that apparently it was here that his future was revealed to him: a local priest, Bahira, was having a theological discussion with Mohamed when he announced to him his future vocation as a Prophet.

Bosra also hosts the ruins of what was one of the largest Cathedrals in the region, a masterpiece of Christianity because it was one of the first buildings that combined a square base with a round dome, back in the 6th century. There isn’t much left of it.

Going back to the amphitheater, main reason for my trip, it is said to be the best preserved in the whole wide world. And it seems true, at least to a non expert such as me. Like I said before, I was afraid this place wouldn’t really impress me too much, come on, I have seen so many Roman ruins before that I am almost bored of them. OMG, seriously, you cannot imagine how magnificent the place is. Above all, you need to understand these are not ruins. The amphitheater is still used for concerts and there is even an annual festival that takes place in it.

As soon as I walked into the stands I felt like I had traveled back in time to the 2nd century, when it was built. I felt like a spectator about to watch some ancient drama, or gladiators. I felt like an artist about to perform, like a choreographer in the backstage following the moves of my artists... It is impossible to describe with words what it felt like, but it was grandiose, dramatic, impressive.

To give you an idea the place could sit 15,000 people, the city had no more than 80,000 citizens. Thus one out of 5 citizens could attend a show at the same time. Imagine a theater in New York City that could host 1.7 millions spectators at once. Amazing.

I wish these pictures could illustrate better the magnificence and splendor of this place, perhaps you will have to visit it yourself to understand it.