Any given weekend in Damascus

You might wonder what it is like to go out in Damascus. Well it is pretty similar to any Western country, or maybe more like a Mediterranean one, like Spain or Italy. People love to get together with their friends and families and there is always time for both.

The evening can start quietly with dinner and a narguile (shisha) and then comes the usual, bars and clubs. There are hundreds to choose from. I like rooftops because the views of the city at night are beautiful and because it is nice to enjoy the breeze, when there is one.

Cafés that have narguiles usually do not serve alcohol, however bars and clubs would be empty if they didn’t serve it! But watch out, going out is not cheap in Syria. Actually life in general isn’t cheap. You might be able to find cheap food but probably as an expat you don’t want to eat in those places. As for bars and drinks, it is common to pay a cover which includes an alcoholic drink (or two soft drinks), usually you’ll pay around 15$. I was out last weekend and we had a table reserved, we had to pay 40$ each, which included three drinks, not so bad I guess, but let me tell you, they pour very little alcohol in your glass!!

Don’t expect too many people out before midnight, again this is a Mediterranean culture and it seems like it is always too early to go out, and way earlier to go back home ;) I am not sure what time places are supposed to shut down because I have never stayed until the end, I am out of practice!

Women, I have said it before, always dress up really nice, they obviously take their time getting ready, fixing their hair and make up; but men are not less and they are always well dressed, again in a Western way: short dresses usually for women, jeans and shirts for men. Women are beautiful and very sexy, especially when they dance.

It is quite common to see old expats just staring at Syrians dancing, and Syrians seems to love being watched, after all that must be one of the reasons they take their time to look so good.

People here love dancing, and they do it like pros. It must be in their blood, like Latinos. They have a fabulous sense of rhythm and no self consciousness, and they are able to move their hips in a way that reminds me of Shakira, who has Lebanese roots. Hands, arms and head movements are also part of the dancing exercise. As for the music, there is always a mix between Arabic tunes, disco music that would sound anywhere else in the world, and a lot of salsa. They love salsa and they always assume I can dance it well, I am not sure why. But trust me, I can’t! And when I see them I certainly don’t even dare trying!

The city is extremely safe and you can walk around any time of day or night, even if you are alone. Taxis will try to make you pay extra if you are an expat, but if you insist they will use the meter and then you should just tip them. Anyways a taxi can take you to the other side of town for just 4 dollars.

So if you ever decide to visit Syria make sure you keep some energy for the evening and night, you will need it! But no worries, they spend the mornings of the weekend sleeping, which I admit didn’t take me long to adapt to!
   

Midan, all you need, any time of the day or night

I have a few months ahead and many places to discover in Damascus and in Syria. The only problem is the heat, it is 45C degrees (120F) today and even though we have been told this is not normal for the month of July, it will be in August. The heat is dry, which is easier to deal with, but still it seems like I will only be doing cultural stuff at night this first couple of months (also keep in mind during the day I work!).

My colleague’s friends took us driving around a cactus farm the other day and I was impressed by their shapes, colors and size! I had no idea you can eat their fruit, which they call figs (but they don't look like our figs), and that same night I tried them in Midan. These figs are actually delicious, juicy and refreshing.

Midan is a long but narrow street full of crowded tiny restaurants that serve mainly shawarmas. They are delicious and we have a few, first chicken then meat. We are told if we come back here alone we should only eat in the same places where they have taken us, just to be safe and sure that hygiene is taken care of. 

As I said the street is packed, there are people everywhere, eating, chatting, laughing. Everything is open 24 hours a day and families with kids are also enjoying, even though it is late at night! Some approach us, they want to talk a little bit, they are curious about where we come from and they also want to practice their English and their French. One family with two beautiful little girls sits behind us and while they wait for their food they tell us they are both doctors and their daughters study in an English school. They used to go to the American one, but it was shut down by the US government a couple years ago. The girls are way to shy to talk with us.

But the street doesn’t only have restaurants; there are also a few meat shops and one of the owners wants me to buy some fresh cuts. He insists, but there is no way I am buying anything in his shop. The guy is nice and ends up wanting to take a picture with me but I am seriously concerned about cleanliness in his shop, and I leave promising I will be back, even though I know I never will. 

Finally, one of the best parts of the street are the many shops that sell delicious little sweets typical of Syria. Each shop wants you to try theirs, for free, to prove theirs are better. I don’t have much of a sweet tooth as many of you know so after the third shop I just give mine to Marc when the shop owners can’t see me. 

These shops are mostly old Damascene houses and the decoration in the inside is beautiful and breathtaking. Also the display of the sweets itself is well taken care of and I just feel like buying boxes for my family. 

 

* Pictures by la elfa